When you hear the name
Stephen Burrows, one usually thinks
about flowing jersey, chiffon, and leather... but beadwork??
This amazing jacket was purchased in New York City in 1969, presumably
from the O-Boutique. It is a very rare, early work by one of
America's greatest designers.
If you are lucky, you may find an occasional Burrows dress or
pant suit but I can bet you that you won't find another jacket
like this. It is so beautiful it has actually brought me to tears
on several occasions, and this is not an exaggeration. I have
seen "artistic" garments over the years, but never
has any "art to wear" struck me with such power and
emotion. This jacket speaks to the eye, the skin and the soul.
The jacket depicts six
beautiful women standing amongst wild blue and green foliage.
The two figures on the back stand proud and tall, with elaborate
headdress. The two on the sleeves also have fancy headwear, but
they stand in a more relaxed pose, heads slightly forward which
was a pose he encouraged his models to strike when showing off
his fashions. The two on the front wear no head-dress though
it seems that rays of light emanate from their heads. They stand
with their heads down, and the green eye seems to be central
in the head, more like the minds eye. All the figures are "painted"
in jet black beads, with blood red breasts and large cut glass
amber colored "jewels" on their posteriors. They are
long, lean and armless, with emerald green eyes.
I am not bold enough
to presume to interpret the meaning of this piece, but without
a doubt there is a story. I have ventured an interpretation,
but I will not share it now as I do not wish to taint your experience
with mine. |
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The jacket is heavy!
Thousands of beads were meticulously sewn by hand onto a silk
backing. The jacket is styled like a tuxedo, with real lapels
and the cute little tails. I love that he didn't bead the underside
of the arm, for the comfort of the wearer. The jacket is fully
lined in silk as well. I personally went over the piece and secured
any areas that I thought may be in danger of bead loss. As I
reinforced, I became more and more amazed at the artistry of
the beadworker. The beads are not uncommon (mostly bugle with
seed beads used in the headdress and red of the bosom), so if
there ever was a problem, the loss could be fixed rather simply. |
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The phrase "museam
piece" is used often to describe fine vintage items, but
this jacket really should be in a museam. It is still very wearable,
and should be enjoyed, but I would love to see it end up in a
fashion museam. I do hope the next owner cherishes it, and takes
care so it lasts for generations to come. |
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It is a small size,
2-6. I was told that the price for this jacket in 1969 was $5,000,
that it was worn only once in public and was lovingly stored
away ever since.
13" shoulder seam
to shoulder seam
32" Bust
26" Waist
31" Length
22" Sleeve with an extra 1" of beaded material that
could be let out if needed |