.. Valentina Sanina, or Madame Valentina as she was more commonly known, was Russian born, but when she immigrated to New York City in 1923, she became the epitome of New York style. A trained actress and dancer, she carried herself with poise and grace, but deep down she retained her sharp, Slavic edge. While the fashion of the times was a boyish flapper look, Valentina wore clothes that were fitted and feminine. In 1925 she opened a small couture house. She catered to the cream of NYC's social scene, creating one of a kind masterpieces specifically designed for the individual customer. She oversaw every detail, and often created entire wardrobes for her very fortunate customers

.. This rare Valentina creation is a true find. Made of ivory watered silk taffeta, printed with delicate bouquets of roses, this ensemble presents a chic, yet romantic look. The metal (talon) zipper is not only "hidden" but the metal teeth were actually covered with fabric, so the fabric zips under the pull completely hiding it from view. I have never seen this in couture before.  It must have been a feat to create it.

.. The gown is simple in appearance, but in execution, it is a marvel. The halter bodice drapes beautifully, with that bit of tension above the navel that creates the folds you see in the picture. The little bows at the small of the back reflect innocence, but the bare back counters that with pure sex appeal. The deep pleats at the waist flow sweetly into a skirt that has volume, but also has a long, lean look.

.. The little jacket crosses over in the front, and closes with a few little hooks at the waist. The back comes down to the waist, then it swoops up to an empire line in the front. There is a little applique bouquet on the left side of the bodice made from the taffeta fabric. At first I feared it was a repair, or perhaps it was there to cover a stain, but after shining a flashlight through the fabric, it is clear this was put there by Valentina to balance out the pattern. The workmanship is perfect, and the shape of the applique is so intricate, it is obvious it was a detail, not a cover up.